Peru was one of the first places I booked when I launched my travel business, sight unseen but trusting my gut and the expertise of our rock-solid Virtuoso partners on the ground. Little did I know, I was paving the way for my own bucket-list journey years later. Fast forward to my own 8-night escapade in Peru, where I kicked things off with a solo adventure through Lima's vibrant streets, then ventured deeper into the Sacred Valley, and wrapped it up with a night in Cusco. Half the trip, I went solo with the backing of my go-to Peruvian partner, A&K DMC, who ensures my clients have the best time—and I got the same VIP treatment. Private driver, personal guide, no crowds, just the soul of Peru, one spectacular sight at a time.
Sure, Machu Picchu gets all the glory—and don’t get me wrong, it's epic—but Peru has so much more to offer. Come for the Lost City, but stick around for the incredible food scene (think Top 50 Restaurants in the World kind of caliber), jaw-dropping landscapes, rich Incan heritage, and enough llamas and alpacas to keep your camera busy. And heads up, Machu Picchu is not as empty as those Instagram shots make it seem. In peak season, you're talking 4,000-5,000 visitors a day, and unless you're riding in style on the Belmond Hiram Bingham train, expect some lines and a bit of a wait to get to the magic. It’s worth every moment, but don't say I didn't warn you.
Altitude is a real thing here, and it’ll hit you like a ton of bricks when you land in Cusco at over 11,000 feet. I felt it immediately—short of breath and just a little wobbly. The remedy? Hydrate, skip the booze, eat light, pace yourself, and sip coca or muña tea like the locals. Simple but effective, and it’ll save you from gasping your way through the highlands.
Explora Valle Sagrado was our luxe base camp, perfectly perched between Cusco and Machu Picchu. With just 50 rooms, each with killer views of the mountains and fields, it’s a playground for the active traveler who wants to get up close and personal with the land. Daily pow-wows with guides mean each day is tailored to your mood and energy, and the food? Let’s just say dining on menus crafted by Virgilio Martínez of “Central” fame (the No. 1 restaurant in the world, folks) was a daily delight, even if I missed a spot at Central itself.
One standout day? A Sunday in Chinchero, where locals decked out in traditional ponchos and hats turn the Plaza de Armas into a kaleidoscope of culture. I picked up a poncho myself earlier on, only to find I’d bought the exact style worn by the Chinchero men. Instant local cred! The Sunday-only Cathedral was another gem, glittering with gold and frescoes, and off-limits to photographers—keeping its mystique intact.
Peru isn’t just a destination; it’s a vibe. A mashup of ancient and new, rustic and refined, and it pulls you in, leaving you wanting more. Go for Machu Picchu, but let Peru surprise you—it’s the journey, not just the postcard moments, that make it unforgettable.
Where to stay:
LIMA - Belmond Miraflores Park (a luxurious oceanfront retreat in Lima’s upscale Miraflores district, offering elegant accommodations, world-class dining, and stunning views of the Pacific Ocean) or Hotel B (a charming boutique hotel located in the bohemian Barranco district, combining art-filled interiors with elegant Belle Époque architecture, offering a sophisticated and intimate stay infused with local culture and creativity)
SACRED VALLEY - Explora Valle Sagrado (a luxury retreat nestled in Peru’s Sacred Valley, offering immersive exploration experiences, breathtaking mountain views, and personalized guided adventures that connect guests deeply with the rich history and stunning landscapes of the Inca heartland), Belmond Rio Sagrado (a serene riverside hideaway in the Sacred Valley, blending rustic elegance with luxurious amenities, where guests can unwind amidst lush gardens, enjoy stunning views of the Urubamba River, and experience the tranquil spirit of the Andean highlands and bottle feed the resident baby alpacas), Inkaterra Hacienda Urubamba (an eco-luxury hotel set in the heart of the Sacred Valley, featuring spacious casitas surrounded by lush gardens and offering a sustainable retreat that combines traditional Andean architecture with modern comforts, perfect for an immersive experience in Peru's natural and cultural heritage), Sol y Luna (a charming boutique hotel in the Sacred Valley, featuring individually decorated casitas surrounded by vibrant gardens, offering guests a unique blend of rustic elegance, warm hospitality, and authentic Peruvian culture with a commitment to sustainability and community support)
AGUAS CALIENTES - Inkaterra Machu Picchu (a luxury eco-hotel set in a lush cloud forest near the iconic ruins, offering elegant accommodations, personalized service, and immersive nature experiences that blend seamlessly with the surrounding environment and Andean culture), Sumaq Machu Picchu (a sophisticated luxury hotel located near the base of Machu Picchu, offering upscale accommodations, exceptional Peruvian cuisine, and a focus on immersive cultural experiences that celebrate the heritage and traditions of the region)
MACHU PICCHU - Belmond Sanctuary Lodge - the only accommodation right by the entrance to Machu Picchu. You can’t get closer than this. Be the first to enter Machu Picchu.
CUSCO - the capital of the Incas and such a well-preserved historic city. Belmond Monasterio (a beautifully restored 16th-century monastery) , Palacio Nazarenas (a lavish boutique retreat housed in a former palace and convent, featuring opulent suites with piped in oxygen and a heated outdoor pool), Inkaterra La Casona (a meticulously restored 16th-century manor house in Cusco with only 11 rooms)
Where I Ate:
LIMA - Isolina Taverna, located in Lima's Barranco district, known for its hearty, traditional Peruvian comfort food served family-style in a lively, nostalgic setting that celebrates the rich flavors and culinary heritage of Lima's classic taverns. Order the Emoliente drink which quickly became my favorite and of course the Lomo Saltado.
CUSCO - Kion unique fusion of Peruvian and Chinese flavors with its creative chifa dishes in a lively, modern setting. Cicciolina a charming blend of Mediterranean and Andean cuisine, featuring fresh, locally-sourced ingredients served in a cozy atmosphere above the cobblestone streets of Cusco’s historic center. The black squid ink pasta with shrimps was one of the best I’ve ever had.
Ready to plan your PERU trip? Contact me to start your journey.
Photos by: Gustavo Vivanco Leon & Tesa Totengco; Additional Photos on #travelswithtesatoperu