Relais & Châteaux, a celebrated hotel and gastronomy brand founded in France in 1954, offers a rich tapestry of luxury experiences across 500 hotels in 65 countries. Known for its dedication to culinary excellence and boutique charm, this brand sets the gold standard for hospitality. Recently, I was invited on a familiarization trip to Brittany, a region I knew little about—aside from my Breton-striped shirts. Surely, that meant Brittany and I were already destined to be besties.
With 150 properties in France alone (and 40% of their hotels nestled in UNESCO World Heritage sites), Relais & Châteaux epitomizes boutique luxury. The average property boasts just 36 rooms, and many of their hotels house Michelin-starred restaurants. Membership isn’t handed out lightly—candidates undergo 300 meticulous quality checks, followed by biennial audits to ensure their standards remain impeccable.
Our Journey Begins: Les Lumière, Versailles
We kicked off at Les Lumière, a dazzling new addition to the Relais & Châteaux family. Located across the main entrance to the Palace of Versailles, Lumière opened its doors in June 2024. Imagine the elegance of château architecture combined with modern comforts, including thoughtful touches like a weighted blanket (lovingly dubbed “the cocoon”) and in-room devices offering guided meditations or white noise.
Dining here feels equally special. The restaurant encourages you to disconnect by offering a box to stow your phone—not mandatory, but a clever nudge toward mindfulness. Oh, and did I mention the café is by Pierre Hermé of the macaron fame? Breakfast with a view of Versailles was just the cherry on top.
A Coastal Escape: Domaine de Rochevilaine
From Versailles, we boarded a train to Vannes and ventured to Domaine de Rochevilaine, perched on the Atlantic coast. This family-owned gem was one of Relais & Châteaux’s founding members. It proudly houses France’s first wellness center, complete with a spa overlooking the ocean.
During low tide, we watched locals harvesting oysters—a quintessential Breton scene. Dinner at their restaurant was unforgettable. My standout dish? A perfectly crafted Plateau de Fruits de Mer, courtesy of the talented Chef Patrice, whose wife, Cécile, manages the property with heartwarming hospitality.
Forest Retreat: Domaine de Locguénolé
Next, a short train ride from Vannes brought us to Domaine de L’Orion, a property that recently underwent a €24m renovation. Surrounded by lush forests and situated on an estuary, this retreat offers accommodations as unique as its setting. Fancy a night in a converted ship with three luxurious rooms? Or perhaps a stay in their charming “hen house”? They’ve got it all.
Activities abound—tennis courts, pools, a spa, and even a private pontoon for boat excursions. Dining options include a bistro and a gastronomic restaurant, where European and Asian design blend seamlessly with the sumptuous food.
We even took a boat trip to the island of Groix, renting bikes to explore its idyllic landscapes. It was one of those rare, sunny fall days that made me wonder why I don’t do this more often.
The Grand Finale: Hôtel Balzac, Paris
Our journey ended back in Paris at Hôtel Balzac, which opened in September 2024. If Lumière was an ode to classical grandeur, Balzac is all about modern minimalism. Tucked near the George V metro station, this boutique hotel offers serene, Japanese-inspired interiors, a cozy spa with an indoor Jacuzzi, and stunning views of the Eiffel Tower. While there’s no full-service restaurant, the bar menu and breakfast spread were delightful.
Other Properties We Visited
Relais & Châteaux has no shortage of exceptional properties, and a few standouts deserve a special mention:
Les Etangs de Corot: A charming lakeside woodland hamlet near Versailles, once beloved by the Impressionists.
Saint James: The only château hotel in Paris, originally opened in 1919 as a Gentleman’s Club. With 54 rooms, a Michelin-starred restaurant, and a Michelin Green Key, it’s the epitome of sophistication.
Splendide Royal: Boasting just 12 rooms, this former home of fashion designer Pierre Cardin near Saint-Honoré features an Italian restaurant and exudes 5-star luxury.
Relais Christine: Nestled on the Left Bank, this gem offers 48 rooms (including four with private gardens). Its Guerlain Spa, located underground in a former abbey, is a favorite among Americans seeking quintessential Parisian charm.
Final Thoughts
Relais & Châteaux’s properties in Brittany left me in awe. Each hotel radiated a unique personality, blending local heritage with unparalleled luxury. Whether you’re savoring Michelin-starred cuisine, meditating under a weighted blanket, or pedaling through an island’s winding paths, Relais & Châteaux ensures every moment is unforgettable. Brittany may have started as the home of my striped shirts, but it’s now a place I’ll forever associate with warmth, elegance, and extraordinary hospitality.