The Great Wildebeest Migration, photo by Michael Girman
The Greatest Show on Earth
High up on my bucket list was the Great Wildebeest Migration crossing the Mara River in Tanzania. We were fortunate to witness this not once, but twice. It was October 2020, at a time when COVID was still raging and no vaccine was yet available. (Read how I traveled during COVID.) In the vastness of the Serengeti, there were only a handful of tourists and only a smattering of safari vehicles on the river banks. In a normal year, hundreds of jeeps line the Mara River jockeying for the best viewing position.
To get to the Northern Serengeti, we boarded a light aircraft and flew from Seronera to Kogatende airstrip. Our new guide Robert met us and briefed us about a possible river crossing. Our options were to head to our lodge and rest or to wait by the river in the hope of a crossing.
For this to happen, several herds must converge upon the river banks. Vehicles have to be out of sight so as not to spook the animals or block their way. As hundreds of wildebeests amass, the noise reaches a feverish pitch. It only takes one wildebeest to jump into the river. The rest immediately follow, cascading down the steep bank and hurling themselves into the water, where hungry crocodiles await.
The scene reminded me of a great battle in a movie. The army troops gather in the distance, and the anticipation heightens to the sound of beating drums and blaring horns. On signal, the whole army charges forward, deafening and unstoppable. The Great Wildebeest Crossing is perhaps the Greatest Show on Earth.
Lemala Kuria Hills
Lemala Kuria Hills Lodge is remotely located in the Wogakuria Hills of the Northern Serengeti. Its close proximity to the Mara River on the Serengeti’s border with Kenya’s Maasai Mara makes it the perfect location to witness the world-famous wildebeest migration between July and October. Each of the 15 luxurious tented guest suites is set against giant boulders, ensuring privacy. The main lodge had an old-world safari feel, and I loved the outdoor dining areas scattered around the trees and kopjes. On our last night, the staff surprised us with a private dinner and bonfire by the swimming pool.
Tanzania is open to all international visitors. The wide-open space makes it a natural socially distant destination. Let me know if I can help you plan your safari adventure.
If you missed my previous Tanzania posts, you can find them here: Tarangire, Ngorongoro, and Eastern Serengeti. Up next is the final installment of my 10 Day Tanzania Safari series - Hot Air Balloon Ride + Leopards. Stay tuned.