Morocco Revisited

I first went to Morocco In 1993 on a travel agent familiarization trip. I was still single and invited a female friend to join me. It was our first time in Africa and the visual impact it left us still influences our color and design choices. My friend went on to design and produce carpets out of Morocco. I swore to return one day with a loved one in tow.

It only took 30 years to come back

My photo in Majorelle Gardens from 1990’s in film and 2022 in digital.

Never did I imagine that it would take almost thirty years to return; this time as a travel advisor leading my own group of eight friends and family on an affordable luxury trip starting in the ancient city of Fez, through the Atlas Mountains to reach the Sahara desert, and recover in the Oasis to reach magical Marrakech.

This trip was our gift to our mother for her 80th birthday and was originally planned for April 2020. Well, we all know what happened then. After three postponements, we finally timed it to happen after my sister’s birthday celebration in Mallorca.

Let me VIP you

Our journey was seamless and well organized starting with a Fast Track airport service on arrival and departure. This VIP add-on service allows clients to skip the normal lines and breeze through immigration, customs and security.

Comfort and Safety is Key

Our Mercedes-Benz 14passenger van was very comfortable and well equipped with A/C, wifi , leather seats and water on board. We had a private driver and top expert guide with us throughout the trip.

a private sahara camp and a sunset camel ride

A highlight of our trip was our own private luxury camp in the Sahara where we rode camels at sunset, dined under the stars and danced around the fire to the beat of African drums.

bargain like a berber

Bargaining is part of the culture and is customary in the souks. I know I did well when the seller calls me a Berber. We bought jellabas, scarves for turbans, babouches and dressed like locals on our trip making for great photos. For me, “sense of place” also pertains to how one dresses when traveling.

WHERE WE STAYED

For this trip I chose boutique riads, hotels and lodges which was perfect for our group. I also visited other properties in Fes and Marrakech to see other options for my clients. Riads are converted houses /palaces located in the Medina. Often they are several buildings that have been connected as one. In cosmopolitan Marrakech, we had fun evenings with dinner and live entertainment (drummers, DJ, belly dancing).

Who is Morocco perfect for? 

Couples, families, friends looking for culture, history and adventure.

What to expect in Morocco?

Pack your curiosity, open mindedness, and understanding. Moroccans are predominantly Muslim and the call to prayer 5x daily heard throughout the cities are a reminder of this peoples faith and devotion to Allah. I find Moroccans to be kind and gentle people. Best to greet everyone with “Salam Alekum” (May God be with you), and they will reply “Alekum Salam” (and God with you too). 

Tips for traveling in Morocco

• Beware the snake charmers in J’Ma El Fna in Marrakech. DO NOT even think of taking a picture or you will be chased down for payment. Unless this is what you want of course.

• Walk behind your guide in the Medina so sellers know you are not alone and they won’t bother you. And if they do, say NO politely and walk away without engaging in conversation. 

• Drink only bottled water.

• Know what you want to pay for items before you start bargaining. 

• Bargaining is acceptable and part of the culture. A hard bargain to me is 3 offers and counter offers, verbal or written. 

• Ask permission to photograph or film someone before doing so. 

What kind of food can I have in Morocco?

Lamb or chicken Tagine, couscous, Moroccan mint tea (also referred to as Moroccan scotch) is green tea sweetened with sugar and infused with fresh mint leaves. A Moroccan salad are dishes of eggplant, tomatoes, cucumber, zucchini, olives.

NOW Let’s plan your trip to Morocco!

Greece and Egypt Tested Us

Photos by @michaelgirman

Michael and I just came back from a three-week trip that brought us to Greece for the nth time, and to Egypt for the first. It was our first ever cruise aboard the World Navigator of Atlas Ocean Voyages on its maiden voyage from Athens to Cairo. 

We had six COVID tests throughout this trip: one before flying to Greece, another before boarding the boat, three during the cruise, and the last before flying home. Both of us tested negative throughout.

Unfortunately, one passenger on board the Navigator tested positive en route to Cairo. We were two among many passengers who had been exposed to this guest (on the same shore excursion bus, dinner table, etc.), and we were asked to isolate in our cabins. Our ship returned to Crete where the passenger and family disembarked. He was quarantined in a COVID hotel for eight days while his family members stayed in a separate hotel and explored Crete until he tested negative and was cleared to fly back to the US.

The rest of us were flown in two private charter flights from Crete to Cairo, put up at the Four Seasons or Ritz Carlton, and treated to a private dinner and show at the Giza pyramids. Today I received a $250 per person check as recompense and a $500 future cruise credit. Despite the initial confusion and uncertainty, Atlas Ocean Voyages did everything they could to make the trip worthwhile for the passengers. I wholeheartedly support suppliers who stand behind their products, promises, and clients.

photos by @michaelgirman

Egypt took my breath away, and not just because it was the height of summer (107°F 42°C). The scope, expanse, and enormity of their/our ancient history is too great and important to squeeze in a box. We explored Cairo, entered an active archeological site in Saqqara, flew to Luxor and visited Karnak Temple and Valley of the Kings, cruised up the Nile River (biblical scenery), stopping at Edfu and Aswan, and on our last day drove south to Abu Simbel (40km from Sudan). We also visited a carpet school, alabaster factory, essential oils shop, markets in Old Cairo, and a Nubian village. All throughout we were privately guided by Aziz, an Egyptologist and now friend and business partner. We rode in our private minivan/camel/horse carriage/motor boat/felucca. We felt secure throughout our trip. When there were unavoidable crowds, we masked up, sanitized, and maintained a safe distance. 

When you are ready to breathe in Egypt, allow me to plan your trip for you.

I hit a wall in Namibia

We were touring on the Skeleton Coast, named for the wooden ships that once ran aground here. In this spectacular part of southern Africa, driving an all-terrain vehicle on the towering dunes is one of the highlights for travelers.

Our guide Shiimi assured us the ride would be smooth and easy. It was my friend Teresa’s first time driving any kind of motorized vehicle. But I watched her just GO. She climbed on her ATV and drove fearlessly behind Shiimi for two hours.

Me, not so much. It was my first time driving an ATV (my excuse) and I drove like an old Asian lady (I’m pretty sure I’m allowed to say that because I fit the description sometimes). My husband Michael literally drove circles around me, entreating me to shift out of first gear so I’d go a little faster.

Suddenly, in the distance, I saw Teresa and Shiimi at the base of what appeared a very high wall, of Game of Thrones proportions. Had I forgotten to tell Shiimi about my fear of heights? If I followed them to the top, would I have the nerve to go down?

Again, I watched Teresa just GO. If she could do it, so could I.

I decided not to look too far ahead and to just focus on what was directly in front of me. I drove like this until I reached the top. And then I stopped to look around.

BREATHTAKING, right?

And so WORTH IT.

I’d like to share a few takeaways from this experience with you: Be present. Trust your guide. Open yourself to new experiences (why we travel). Travel with people who can set the pace, lead the way and be by your side. I hope your travels result in equally breathtaking moments.